|09-09-2017, 02:42 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Third chapter for my 84 318i
Well, it's back Not running yet, but I've made a bunch of progress over the last month or so.
Unfortunately, my previous hosting provider went under so I've lost a lot of images that were previously linked in the build threads. First chapter was restoring the car to OEM+ type of configuration, all the wear items replaced and m10b18 refreshed with all new components (driveline, cooling, electrical etc). Second chapter was replacing the m10 with fully rebuilt m30b35 out of 91 735i, ran that through CA BAR and drove it for about 2 years and a full season of autocross.
Car then was put on non-op status and sat for about 4 years.
Photo from right before I put it away after selling my previous swap.
Car sat (non-op) for about 4 years, after I sold my m30b35 swap to a local mechanic to put in one of his cars.
I've ended up purchasing 3 m6x engines, 1 m62b44, and 2 m60b40. I've taken the m62 and m60 apart and build an almost complete M62B40 that's still on the engine stand. Rebuild heads, new crank/rod bearings, timing guides etc.
The 3rd engine I bought complete from a running 95 540i car locally, I've taken it apart replaced just the things that needed attention. Valley pan, new top to bottom gaskets, taken oil pump off (with its 3 missing bolts in the oil pan) and cleaned/re-assembled it and set the oil pump chain slack per the manual. The timing guides must have been done along with the chain as the main dual row chain is not as stained as the camshaft chains and the guides don't show much wear at all so I left it alone.
I've finally replaced the steering rack on the car, gone is the original 318i rack. Got the rack from the Rack Doctor after reading many threads and talking to Rich over the phone. I've picked an e46 330i 3.0 lock to lock rack built with the e36 tie rod ends to drop into the e30 (Rack Doctor offers this on their site).
Lowered the front subframe with the Garagistic spacers to keep the driveline angle as good as possible for the m6x swap.
I've taken the dash out in order to have more visibility with installing Wilwood pedal box along with Garagistic bracket. This is probably one of the most tedious parts of the swap. First I had the wrong masters that were too long, had to order a different set. Then, I didn't like the amount of play in the wilwood pedals (side to side). After talking to Wilwood and exchanging a couple of photos and short video they've sent me some washers that I've installed to get the side-to-side play improved.
I've also made some modifications to the Garagistic pedal box bracket to make a little more clearance for the wiring loom under the dash going to/from the fusebox, and also a little bit for more clearance around one of the mounting bolts/nuts against the wilwood balance bar, it was just too close to my liking and I didn't want to risk it.
Today I've finally dropped the v8 into this thing, something that I've always wanted to do for a long time. To be honest the drop in wasn't even that bad, I think my m30b35 took more effort. My friend and I did have to put a very steep angle on the engine hoist leveler but in the end it fit .
Test fit is to see how much clearance I have for various lines (brakes/clutch), wiring, and around the exhaust manifolds . I went with the flaming river u-joints and DD shaft for best clearance.
In the next few weeks I plan on taking it back out to install the TTV racing single mass flywheel and e36 m3 clutch kit (along with the pilot bearing , if you guys remember from my m30b35 swap (Hey Pinepig! LOL) I left it on the trunk of the car DOH!
I still need to source an e36 328i manual driveshaft, order z3m radiator, and 2 catalytic converters. But most of the other major things have been done
Plan is to BAR this swap just like I did my m30b35, so hopefully it will be just as painless as prior attempt.
M62B40 engine that's on the engine stand I am either going to complete as the 4.4L or look at what it would take to build that into a stroker using M5 crank? But that's not on the immediate to do list right now.
Will post updates here as I make more progress.
Unfortunately, the hosting provider I was using to host all my previous photos from earlier stages of restoration and modifications went out and I lost a bunch of images Wish I had the original photo of what the car looked like when I first got it :/
Shot of it when she was on Hartge 16s
TO DO LIST:
Install wiper mechanism (old one broke)
Install blower fan motor (for those who don't know, one from Z3 cars fits)
Route hard lines
Figure out what shifter to use (I should have kept my old shifter carrier)
Figure out what rear water accumulator pipe to run (I have now 3 on hand)
Got a new set of front hubs/bearings to install, as well as all new brake lines front and rear.
Rear trailing arm bearings have been done a few years ago when I've swapped the rear end.
- 84 318i 5speed , non ABS, manual windows and sunroof
- Ground control race camber plates
- Ground control coil-over kit
- 51mm cut/re-inforced/shortened strut housings
- Custom re-valved Bilstein sports
- Ground control tall rear upper mounts
- Offset lower control arm bushings
- New oem rear subrame and trailing arm bushings
- Cabrio front sway bar
- e46 330i 3.0 lock to lock steering rack
- e35 tie rod ends
- Flaming River u-joints and DD shaft
Brakes and Wheels
- TireRack 15x8 e30 specific wheels
- 225 width Kumho/Hoosier race tires
- Late model 325i front and rear calipers and rotors
- New front and rear hubs/bearings
- New calipers
- Wilwood pedal box with 2x 5/8 masters
- Wilwood 2in 3out bias valve
- Originally M10B18 (block cracked around head bolts)
- 2nd swap was a fully rebuilt 91 M30B35 with 5speed and 533 flywheel (sold)
- Custom 3.46 LSD diff with 4 clutch discs
- 325e driveshaft
- 95 M60B40 engine, re-sealed top to bottom
- 94 530i 5speed transmission
- VVT Racing single mass v8 flywheel
- E36 3.2 M3 clutch kit
- S54 Z3M radiator
- SPAL pusher fan
- Original black carpet
- Late model 7k instrument cluster swap
- Late model dash swap
- Late model black/cloth door and quarter panel swap
- Late model speaker shelf swap
- New consoles and gem leather shift/e-brake boots and e-brake handle
- Corbeau race bucket driver seat
- Corbeau trs reclining passenger seat
- Momo wheel
- Map light mirror
- Radio delete plate
-318is shadow line trim and rear quarter windows
-Original M-Technic kit
-Late model headlights
-Yellow m-technic fogs
-Euro plate filler
-Motorsport door handles
-Late model body painted mirrors
Last edited by jean : 09-09-2017 at 02:47 AM.
|09-09-2017, 02:42 AM||#2|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Pedal box with masters
This part was fun
e46 330 rack and u-joints
Since my car is a non-abs car, my original MC had 3 hard lines going to it, so I have 3 lines to deal with. The garagistic wilwood pedal bracket does not allow for adding a remote balance bar adapter that wilwood makes so I am going to try this 2in (from the masters) to 3 out valve.
New valley pan, top, bottom , rear gaskets and seals.
and it fits
And it fits
|09-09-2017, 02:43 AM||#3|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Pulled the engine/trans out, got the flywheel and pilot bearing installed.
Installed Garagistic poly mounts and reinstalled engine with e38/e39 modified manifolds to see how much clearance I have around the steering shaft u-joints , firewall, subframe etc.
It looks like passenger side exhaust exit is the worst spot right now, will need to massage the footwell area to make clearance.
Looking at the rear accumulator pipe options as well, I have two different styles on hand . One with 2 outlets and one with 4.
Intake manifold installed to check for clearance at the back of the manifold against the firewall cowl area.
Flywheel and new bolts installed, pilot bearing.
Checking for clearance around the oil pan and e46 rack, looks good here.
Driver side exhaust mount clearance with flaming river u-joints
Passenger side is UGH tight.
Rear water pipe clearance , flywheel
More of rear water pipe and firewall clearance
|09-09-2017, 02:44 AM||#4|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Since I got the dash out I went ahead and lowered the heater/ac box down into the cabin to make room for installing the wiper assembly.
Got the wiper assembly installed, with new bushings as someone on the forum recommended. Went to install the blower fan and resistor and found out the blower resistor is the wrong style, 4 pin vs 3.
Started looking carefully at the rear accumulator pipe options, just thinking about what would be cleaner, easier to service, and just more reliable?
The accumulator pipes come in at least 3 configurations, one with 4 outlets and one with 2. The ones with 2 come with no threaded bongs for temp sensors and one with. I ended up collecting all 3 styles between the 3 engines I've gotten .
Obviously need to lines for the heater core...and one needed for the expansion tank. Running the expansion tank there are also two options. 740i water pumps have 3 coolant hoses, and 540i water pumps have only two.
So with 740i pump you have the 2 hoses going straight to the radiator and one hose for the expansion tank. With 540i pump you have just the two radiator hoses, so the expansion tank would need to be run off the back of the engine.
Obviously there are pros and cons to each configuration here, you want the line to be as clean or straight and expansion tank at the highest position so that's a given. I'll be running one by the firewall on the passenger side where I have most room. Running a coolant line to the front of the engine / water pump doesn't look as clean but it sure looks better from serviceability angle. The rear accumulator pipe area is REALLY tight/busy even with just 2 hoses going to the heater core pipes.
Need to basically make a decision in the next week or so and order the water pump so I can seal the coolant pipes under the intake manifold and rear pipe up.
Got a 95 m60b40 540i/6speed manual harness from a member on BFC. I didn't want to run an auto harness and have extra connectors dangling, so hopefully this one will work fine and keep things neat.
I've been exchanging some messages with DUDMD tuner on BFC as well regarding DME options, I want to ensure there is no off throttle lag/delay with rpm's sticking and also no ECU codes that would show up and cause me to fail BAR test.
This weekend I have the following on my TO DO list
Finish up the wiper motor assembly install (need one washer).
Finish installing the heater/blower fan plastic shrouds (what a major PITA that is).
Need to get the right 3 pin resistor fan, maybe I'll locate one tomorrow otherwise will need to come back to this again.
Pull the engine out, lock the flywheel in place with the m6x tools and torque the flywheel bolts
Install and torque the pressure plate and install the clutch.
Install x5 oil filter housing o-rings and torque the plate
Massage the firewall area by the heater core hard lines at the back of the engine
Massage the passenger footwell area to make room for the exhaust manifold.
Mount the wilwood bias prop valve
Run the hard lines to the valve, from the valve.
Next weekend bolt the engine and trans together and drop it in again as one unit with exhaust manifolds attached.
Hopefully get the coolant stuff figured out with regards to the rear accumulator pipe and heater hoses.
Install water pump pipes, water pump and intake manifold.
Install starter, alternator, pulleys, power steering pump.
Start on wiring.
|09-17-2017, 12:11 AM||#6|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Today took some hours to get the wilwood 2in 3out valve, and get new hard lines made and routed to how I like them.
Next up to replace all the soft lines on each corner, have new ones on hands. Old ones I've replaced before some years back but they show some hairline cracks an might as well replace them now before filling and bleeding the system.
I need to figure out if I can stick the fuel filter somewhere in the back of the car to keep the engine bay as clean and simple as possible, and also not have the fuel filter close to the exhaust manifold.
Also, the charcoal canister needs to find a good location as well. I am thinking, perhaps I can fit it in the area behind the driver side headlight where I want to mount the oil filter housing (need the lines extended as well).
|09-20-2017, 09:18 AM||#7|
E30: M-tech 1, S50B30 euro
Location: the Netherlands
Join Date: Jan 2005
Nice to see you back here. I guess the E30 sticks with the old folks here.
|09-20-2017, 12:49 PM||#8|
Location: Louisville, KY
Join Date: Aug 2009
|09-22-2017, 02:41 AM||#9|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Bleeding this system has been a PITA so far. Doing some searching online I've found many threads on the topic of bleeding dual master systems. Gravity bleed, and bleeding by pumping the pedal and releasing air from furthest caliper first only yielded with working rear brakes and no front brakes.
Example - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Glc51djVn6c
This reminds me, I need to call Wilwood and ask them if they recommend installing a return spring for the brake pedal?
Motiv pressure bleeder from Amazon, hopefully that will get the job done,
Longer oil filter housing lines, the ones I have are too short and another oil filter housing with the horizontal mounting tab.
Early 325es expansion tank as well, anybody want a clean late model tank that isn't BROWN in color due to age ? I'll throw that in FS thread.
New knock sensors for the v8 are on the way as well, I messed up years ago when I bought new sensors for my v8 on the stand and they are 3pin style and don't fit the manual engine harness that I plan on using.
|09-22-2017, 07:44 AM||#10|
cool on the progress but to bad its not been the best results.
needs sub frame bushings
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