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Old 02-18-2015, 11:36 PM   #21
Hsquad12
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Default Rust in cylinder bores

well I've been going over in mind the pros and cons of taking a gamble versus doing the job right and also I've considering the advice of my old man, Inkk and the others on the board I've decided to slow down and do the right thing. - i'll be pulling the short motor out as soon as I find time between work, kids, house project and footy.....
what pushed me over the edge was the condition of the two flooded cylinders. 10yrs of corrosion has left too much pitting in the walls for my to throw on fresh head, the marks are slowing feathering out however I'm sure the cyls are far from round now......
I have posted some pictures so others can see how far I got. #3 was the one i worked on the most (~3hrs) as it had a deep gall mark where the rink came to rest. #2 I'd not spent more than 15mins on. granted 220grit sandpaper is never a good plan for engine parts however I'm sure it would have run but with the engine almost torn down this far it would be stupid to stop now and not do the job right, even if I have to spread the job out over 3months.

curse you Inkk for being the voice of reason!!. now I expect some advice on which crank/pistons etc to use..... oh, and how to lift the motor out without buying a hoist and engine stand
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Old 02-19-2015, 04:01 AM   #22
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Default

I couldn't tell you what to buy as engines go but do the math because you may be able to do a m50 swap for the same money. Good running motors are everywhere.

Pulling out the motor is easy. Undo the bolts and whatever is connected to it, mounts etc. Put something under the gearbox to support it for when it falls out, a few blocks of timber would be sufficient. Grab the front of the motor and wiggle it about until it separates from the box. Use a jimmy bar or something to pull them apart. Thread one of the gearbox bolts back in to one of the top holes at the back of the motor. Either through a link on a long chain or just loop some rope around it or you can even thread the rope through the hole without a bolt. Whatever floats your goat. Do the same at the front of the motor but on the opposing corner. You can even put head bolts back in using a flat washer or a piece of plate of some sort. Tie the other end of the rope or chain there with just enough slack for you to slide a long pipe or strong piece of timber through from one side of the car to the other (make sure you have some blankets or towels or something over your fenders so you don't scratch or damage them). Get someone on either end and lift the engine out. It will be quite light to be honest. There you have it, a ghetto fabulous way of pulling an engine.

And never blame me again for your e30 ownership or I'll ban your ass, newb!
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Old 02-19-2015, 09:09 AM   #23
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Default

Yeah, unless you just love 4-cyl motors, I'd be swapping to at least an m20b25. And if you do love the buzz of a 4-cyl, well, have at it.
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Old 02-21-2015, 02:36 PM   #24
Hsquad12
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Default Engine rebuild

Thanks for the solid advice. Unfortunelty I'm too scared of the power of an I6 and the impending excitement that might bring so I think I am going to stay with the M42 and beater rebuild plan. Keeping in real in a German Cortina

The engine plan might change if the block is too corroded to bore out without buying new Pistons. Time will tell on the that. The next step is to make time to pull the block and assess the damage....

inkk - Thank you for boosting my morale. You as my favorite MILF on the forum: Moderator I'd Like to (be)Friend
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