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Limited Group Buy: E30 Rear Subframe Camber & Toe Correction Kits - $69 Shipped

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Old 10-09-2013, 11:47 PM   #211
chris325ix
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No. Its not that hard - im about 190lbs, so my weight at the end of a 3 foot bar is more than enough leverage.

I think you will be hard pressed to find an affordable 300ft/lb torque wrench that is worth a darn.

The outside of the hub serves no purpose, and you cant see it. The small marks left are no big deal, imo.
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:48 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDarkSideofWill View Post
I'm about to do my front main seal in the car... that will be fun.

I was going to put the trans in 5th and have my dad hold the brakes (maybe even hook a vacuum pump up to the booster). I hope the 400 ftlbs or whatever it takes to break that bolt loose doesn't slip the clutch.
I dont think the clutch will hold it. I tried that and the hopeless (and dumb) starter method.
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:59 PM   #213
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You know what's weird I always just did mine with an air impact and
never had a problem? Even on the m30s.
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:11 AM   #214
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I dont own an air impact, bu that would be nice.
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:37 AM   #215
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I got new timing covers and I noticed the inside of openings are very-well machined. I never really gave that thought. My question now is do I put sealant on the outside of the seals or put them in dry? I have copper spray, grey rtv, black rtv, right stuff, and high tack brush on sealant. Should I use any of the above?
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:00 PM   #216
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Right stuff lightly smeared on both sides is what id do.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:17 AM   #217
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This is for the actual seal so I was just going to put it on the outside. What do you mean by 'both sides'? As for the gaskets I have some Permatex rubber gasket dressing...

So, I plastiguaged the main bearings and every one of them were identical with no tapering. Some pics are below. It was tricky holding the camera at the right angle while holding the reference paper in place. The last fuzzy image is closest. But you can see I'm within spec and thankfully in the middle of the clearance range.







Freeze (core) Plugs look awesome. I brushed a thin coat of Permatex High Tack on each.






I also finished measuring every oil, 2nd, and top ring for each of the cylinders. I have JE piston rings for the JE 86mm pistons.

Image of 2nd ring:



Using the piston upside down with one ring on in order to set the ring about 1.5" below top of block:



Every oil ring and 2nd ring measured .018" in gap. But every Top ring measured around .011". The range is from .012" - .022" so should I be filing every Top ring to widen the gap a bit? Or could it be JE makes the Top ring gap very close at .011" on purpose?


Here's the spec sheet from Racetep. How, if at all, would these numbers be useful to me?


Last edited by EyExR : 10-14-2013 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:49 AM   #218
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nice on the bearing clearances. I would have guessed that to be the case - BMW did a good job on their cranks, which is why I don't think it's worth machining one.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:58 AM   #219
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Would you sweat the Top ring gap being .011" instead of the required .012" minimum? Or leave it alone?
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:40 AM   #220
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I'll leave that question to people better qualified than me.
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