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Old 01-11-2011, 04:51 PM   #1
EyExR
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Default Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Okay, so I finally got around to doing this iX wheel bearing job and wanted to post up the process for others to use. I wish I had this info a long time ago – would have saved me so much time. But I have to thank others on the forum that have lent their suggestions and advice…So here’ goes.

Take the hub cap off



Ta-dah!



Axle nut in the middle. Found mine had no lock ring on it.



Keeping the car on the ground, I used a 30mm socket to loosen the axle nut. Put a pipe on the end of a torque wrench and it came off without a problem. I did put some penetrating oil in there first.





Loosen the 4 lug nuts on the wheel

Jack it up

Throw your wheel on a pile of wood



Getting’ there



Back of brake caliper



Disconnect the brake sensor behind the caliper



Loosen the 2 brake caliper bolts. You’ll need a 15mm wrench to hold the inner nut while loosening the outer bolt (17mm I believe).



Take the caliper off and hang it from the loop underneath the car (or some place else) with a short bungie cord or rope. Don’t let the brake line take the weight.



Grab a 19mm wrench and remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket






Remove the dust shield – 3 bolts (10mm wrench)







Get ready to remove the tie rod end and control arm ball joints – no biggie really, using the Harbor Freight ball joint separator. Took me a minute to figure out how to use it because it comes with no instructions, but it’s simple. You'll need to loosen the nuts on both ball joints so that they come to the tops of the bolts. Don't remove the nuts yet. Leave them on in order to protect the threads when using the tool. Then simply put the fork portion of the tool above the rubber boot and the single prong piece goes over the top of the bolt/nut. Crank down on the tool using a wrench (you'll see where it goes) and with each turn it’ll squeeeze that sucker out. The control arm ball joint separates with AUTHORITY. Damn – you’ll know it when it happens. Lol





At this point I removed the ABS sensor using an allen tool



Loosen the axle nut the rest of the way



I used a punch like this and a hammer to whack the axle out. Easier than I thought it would be.



I used the stoopid expensive SIR B90 tool to do the work. I don’t know. Maybe it’s worth it. It made the job easy work once I figured out the configuration of all the different parts of the tool. You have to use the tool 3 times for the job – removing the hub, removing the bearing and pressing the bearing.



Pressing out the hub config. Notice where the U-shaped part of the tool is pressing against the spindle. This part took me a minute to figure out.



Hub out. Remove the circlip and then press the bearing out according to the SIR tool instructions.



I had to remove the inner bearing race from the hub because it got stuck on there (this is typical). I ended up using a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to get it off. I made several vertical cuts around it and then used a chisel to give it the final whack. The inner race broke off no problem. But it did take a while.

Press bearing in and replace circlip. Easier said then done if you don’t have the right tool. I ended up creating a homemade tool using a couple of nails, pliers and taming it in with a flathead screw driver



Then just piece everything back together. You can press the ball joints back using another jack. Then tighten the nut.

Put the brakes on. Wheel on.

Done. Rollin’ smoove

Last edited by EyExR : 03-01-2016 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:15 PM   #2
JimK
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It's been my experience the wrong axle nut is supplied, it's for the rear. Nut is reusable, but you will need some locking plates. Others here say they get by without them. I put new ones on.
You will need to split the ball joints too. A harbor freight tool worked for me. Carefully pry the rubber seal down and slide the tool in and you won't rip the ball joint boot.
I't also inspect the CV boots carefully before hand. Once it's back together and a boot goes, you will understand the concern.
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:55 AM   #3
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FAG is good, seal is built into the wheelbearing and I reuse the nut and Circlip.
Don't reuse the nut and circlip if they are damaged.

If you don't have an impact wrench I would throw on the locking plates, can't hurt.

I would also check your brake hoses, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links and control arm bushings.
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:40 PM   #4
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Can anyone confirm that the SIR B90 tool will also press the axle out of the hub? I think i have all the right parts but I just want an answer on this before I begin. Thanks

I've heard stories of people just flipping the axle nut and banging on that to get the axle out without mushrooming the end of the axle... But this could damage the threads I would think.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:02 PM   #5
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The B90 tool can be used, although you'll need to fiddle.

And use a punch to hammer out the axle.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:06 PM   #6
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The B90 tool can be used, although you'll need to fiddle.

And use a punch to hammer out the axle.
Could you explain a little bit more. What do you mean by fiddle? And why would I need a punch to hammer it out - shouldn't the B90 press it out? What am I hammering on? Thanks
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:20 PM   #7
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Could you explain a little bit more. What do you mean by fiddle? And why would I need a punch to hammer it out - shouldn't the B90 press it out? What am I hammering on? Thanks
Oh, sorry. Reading fail. The B90 does absolutely nothing with the axle. You'll have to do some fiddling to get it to press out the bearing.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:29 PM   #8
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Oh, sorry. Reading fail. The B90 does absolutely nothing with the axle. You'll have to do some fiddling to get it to press out the bearing.
ok.

Where do you place the punch to get the axle out? Right in the middle so it eventually contacts the middle of the shaft? thanks
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:44 PM   #9
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What do you mean by eventually? There's a dimple at the tip. Shove the punch in there.
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:18 PM   #10
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Default B90 tool

The B90 tool works perfectly with the same adapters that you would use on the rear wheel bearings. No fiddling required, but it does help if the strut is in a vice as you are still putting a lot of torque on the tool to remove the bearing (at least in my case).
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