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Limited Group Buy: E30 Rear Subframe Camber & Toe Correction Kits - $69 Shipped

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Old 03-27-2006, 01:19 AM   #1
RobertK
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Default How to Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

BMW E30 -> E36 Steering Rack Swap

This guide was created to explain how to swap an E36, E36 M3, and/or E36 Z3 steering rack into
an E30. I do not consider this to be the only method to accomplish this swap so if you have
any suggestions please post any helpful tips in this thread.

The Parts You Need: - All Prices Quoted from BMAParts.com


Item - - - - - - - - - - BMW Part Number - - - Qty - - -Price


7/16 Bolt 2 Inches Long - - xxxxxxxxxxxx - - - - -x2 - - -$???
Bolt M10x50 - - - - - - - - - 26111226737 - - - - x2 - - -$2.70
Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129964672 - - - - x2 - - -$0.60
Copper Seals 14x20 - - - - -32411093596 - - - - -x4 - - -$0.68
Copper Seals 16x22 - - - - -32411093597 - - - - -x4 - - -$1.04
Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129922716 - - - - -x4 - - $1.20
Power Steering Res. - - - - -32411097164 - - - - x1 - - -$19.50
High Pres. PS Hose - - - - - 32411141953 - - - - -x1 - - -$74.00
Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72118119268 - - - - -x1 - - -$2.05
Spacer - - - - - - - - - - - -72111847480 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.92
Nut - - - - - - - - - - - - - -72111977925 - - - - -x2 - - -$1.10
LP PS Return Hoses - - - - - xxxxxxxxxxx - - - - - x2 - - -$14.50
Bottle of ATF - - - - - - - - xxxxxxxxxxx - - - - - -x1 - - -$2.50
Tacos - - - - - - - - - - - - xxxxxxxxxxx - - - - - -x3 - - -$2.75

NOTE: New PS Hoses and PS Res. are not require except the E36 HP PS hose but it is suggested that you replace them for the sake of preventative maintenance.

Steering Racks

92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Ebay - Tom's FAP - $125.00

92-98 E36 3.2 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13

95 E36 M3 3.0 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $270.13

95-97 E36 Z3 1.9L 2.7 Turn to Lock Ratio Rack - Maval Rebuilt - $317.59

All Steering Racks Purchased from BMA have a $150 Core Charge.

Total Cost = $256.57 - $449.16


The Tools You Need:

3/8 Ratchet
1/2 Ratchet
3/8 Sockets = 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
1/2 Sockets = 17mm, 19mm, 22mm
Open End Wrenches = 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm
Hammer & Wooden Block
Vice Grips
Flat Head Screw Driver
Table Vice
Tape Measure
Hydraulic Jack & 2 Jack Stands
Dremel w/ Sanding and Cutting Bits

Getting the Job Done

Step 1: Jack up the vehicle and set it on jack stands

Step 2: Remove both front wheels from the car

Step 3: Turn your steering wheel all the way to each side and remove the tie rod ends from the strut

NOTE: Use a small jack to raise the strut up on the control arm ball joint and then use a block of wood and a hammer to knock the tie rock end down and out of the strut. See Picture Below.



Step 4: Remove the old tie rod boots using a flat head screw driver to pry the boot clamps loose



NOTE: This is what a rack will look like when it finally takes a shit



Step 5: Bend the tie rod locking plates off of the inner tie rod



Step 6: Remove the inner tie rods from the steering rack using the vice grips.



Step 7: Drain the power steering fluid from the PS reservoir.

Step 8: Disconnect all power steering hoses from the PS pump and the steering rack.

x2 19mm Banjo Bolts & x2 22mm Banjo Bolts


NOTE: KEEP ALL BANJO BOLTS REMOVED FROM THE STEERING RACK AND THE PS PUMP!





Step 9: Remove the PS Reservoir by loosening the 13mm bolt shown below. Then remove the low pressure lines and save the hose ends for the new low pressure hoses.

Removing the PS Res. with the bracket makes it easier to remove and loosen the 10mm bolt that clamps it in place



Step 10: Loosen the 13mm bolts that hold the steering knuckle in place.





Step 11: Unbolt steering rack from the subframe by looseing the 15mm bolts holding it in place.



Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.



Step 13: Drop the old steering rack from the steering knuckle.



Step 14: Remove the steering knuckle from the steering column spline.

NOTE: Using a flat head screw driver helps to open the knuckle at the spline to make it drop. See Picture Below.



Step 15: Eat some tacos and drink some beer



Step 16: Using a Dremel - Grind down the rivets that hold the steering knuckle together and pop them out to seperate the two pieces.





Step 17: Using a Dremel w/ cutting blade - Cut the aluminum spacer in half.



Step 18: Use the 7/16 - 2 Inch Bolts & Spacer Halves to shorten the length of the steering knucle. Make sure to put Loctite on the bolt threads to make sure the knuckle does not come apart.

NOTE:Use washers to make both sides even it needed.



Step 19: Tighten the bolts together and test the knuckle for any play. This is what the finished product should resemble.



Step 20: Tap the knuckle onto the steering column spline and tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.

Step 21: Use a wrench to try and make the rack as even as possible. Use a tape measure to ensure both sides of the rack are even.



Step 22: Line the steering wheel up straight and lock it in place. Slowly push the new rack onto the bottom of the knuckle. Once in place tighten the 13mm bolt to secure it.

NOTE: This step may take some time. Be patient and rock the rack while pushing. This is somewhat like stabbing transmission back onto an engine. Here is a picture of the finished product.



Step 23: Tap the lower tabs on the subframe to bend them back into place.

Step 24: Line the holes up on the steering rack with the holes in the subframe. Place your short spacers and bolt the rack into place.



Step 25: Unlock the steering wheel and turn it to check for any binding.

NOTE:If there is some slight binding in the knuckle use a Dremel with a grinding bit to grind out some of the joint. Keep checking the wheel until there is not sign of binding in the steering wheel.



Step 26: Using your hands, bend the high pressure PS line to make it match up with the new steering rack then temporarily bolt it in place.

NOTE: The line to the rack requires very little bending to match up with the rack.

Step 27: Take notes of what bends are needed to match the hose up with the PS Pump. Use a vice or pipe bender to make the appropriate bends.

NOTE: This will take a few trys. Be sure not to bend the metal line at too much of an angle if using a bench vice or you could damage it.

Step 28: Place your new copper crush on the appropriate banjo bolts and bolt down the high pressure PS hose to the rack and PS pump.



Step 29: Install the low pressure hose ends in the new hoses and clamp them in place. Then attach them to the new PS reserviour.



Step 30: Install the new PS reserviour into the engine bay.



Step 31: Bolt up the new low pressure PS hoses to the steering rack and PS pump.



Step 32: Fill the PS reserviour with ATF. Start the car and turn the wheel to both sides a few times to circulate the new fluid. Check for leakage and add more fluid when needed.

Step 33: Reinstall the tie rod ends

Step 34: Bolt your wheels back on, lower the car off the jack stands, and take for a test drive.
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:25 AM   #2
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Nice write up . Now fix your code !!

Also you might not want to tell people to pound on the tie-rod end with a hammer to release it from the spindle/kingpin .

Correct way would be to smack the ft of the spindle just in ft of tie-rod and to pull or pry down on the tie-rod at the same time .
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:40 AM   #3
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AWESOME writeup --- pics 'n' everything. Spectacular - thanks!!

What rack did you put on your car? And how do you like it?
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:45 AM   #4
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OUTSTANING write-up.

When did they start making locktite in stick form?
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:47 AM   #5
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awesome writeup, very nice work. pictures and arrows, yes! =D>
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Old 03-27-2006, 09:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Level
AWESOME writeup --- pics 'n' everything. Spectacular - thanks!!

What rack did you put on your car? And how do you like it?
I went with a slightly used rack from a 1995 318i E36 which is the same as the 92-98 325i/328i steering rack. 3.2 Turn to lock. I bought it from Tom's Foreign Auto Parts through Ebay for $124.99 shipped. They ship fast and all their used parts have a 99 day guarantee and it came with a good set of E36 tie rods attached to it. This was good for me because I have a tight budget right now and my OEM rack was bombed out.

As far as the steering I can definately tell a big difference. Better response and it's much tighter. Though, if you have a big enough budget I would recommend buying a rebuilt Maval Z3 rack from BMAParts.com. From what I hear it provides the best steering response.

Quote:
When did they start making locktite in stick form?
Not sure exactly when but it's great because all you have to do is rolll the threads on the stick.

BTW... who do I talk to about trying to get this thing moved to the "Stickied" forum?
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Old 03-27-2006, 09:41 AM   #7
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Nice write up, step 12 is the only step I'm not realy comfortable with, could you not slide the rack forward and then down?
Quote:
Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs4pro3
Nice write up, step 12 is the only step I'm not realy comfortable with, could you not slide the rack forward and then down?
Quote:
Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.
Because of the oil pan sump we were unable to lower the rack down. You cannot pull it out to the side because you have to pull downward to remove the rack spline from the knuckle.

The other methods you could try would be loosening the motor mounts and lifting the engine with a hoist or lift and removing the oil pan

The method mentioned above is much much easier and if you take your time they safely bend 90 degrees and back. The metal there is very very strong and would require ALOT of repetitive bending to break it.
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Old 03-27-2006, 11:42 AM   #9
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talk to chris about getting this thread stickied

it definitely deserves it
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Old 03-27-2006, 01:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritalin Kid
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs4pro3
Nice write up, step 12 is the only step I'm not realy comfortable with, could you not slide the rack forward and then down?
Quote:
Step 12: Carefully bend back the lower tabs on the subframe that support the bottom part of the steering rack.
Because of the oil pan sump we were unable to lower the rack down. You cannot pull it out to the side because you have to pull downward to remove the rack spline from the knuckle.

The other methods you could try would be loosening the motor mounts and lifting the engine with a hoist or lift and removing the oil pan

The method mentioned above is much much easier and if you take your time they safely bend 90 degrees and back. The metal there is very very strong and would require ALOT of repetitive bending to break it.
Ok just wanted to make sure.
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