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Old 06-17-2006, 05:19 PM   #1
matt325is
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Default My Multi-output Megasquirt Wiring Diagram

(Stickified! Great work Matt. /iXer)

Here it is folks, this is how I wired all of my stuff for megasquirt. Included are all of the regular sensors, added are VR sensor, fan output, boost control, table switching for boost (or nitrous if you want), tach output, 3 coil outputs (i'm only using coil A right now). Make sure to set all of the settings in Megatune correctly before installing all of these. It's easy to fry stuff. Make sure the outputs in MT correspond with what outputs you have them wired to on the board.

I added a DB9 connector for my ignition outputs, makes it easy to connect and disconnect. Make sure to double up the pins so you don't pull too many amps and burn them up.

I used the main relay and fuel pump relay under the hood on the driver's side of the car for main power and fuel pump power (controlled by MS not Motronic)



If you see anything noticably wrong, tell me and I'll change it, I did this late last night heh.







Here is my megasquirt file if you want to look it over, the boost control is still a bit off, but kinda works, need to tune it more. http://www.mkosonen.com/mattstuned61206.msq

Any questions/comments?

On Monday I'm ordering new MSD spark plug wires, 3 2 post MSD coils, and a few new coil ignitors, I cant wait to get this running waste fire.

matt
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Old 06-17-2006, 06:47 PM   #2
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wow, thank you.
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Old 06-17-2006, 09:05 PM   #3
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matt that info is worth a millions for some of us who
dont know as much as you . hope to know 1/10 of what
you knew about ms some day. thanks for making me dream
what my car might be sone =D>
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Old 06-17-2006, 09:13 PM   #4
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Great guys, this is the exact response I wanted. I spent probably 4 hours making that diagram, and making sure it was correct. This is all for you guys, I remember back when I first started megasquirt, if someone had made a wiring diagram like this for me, I woulda been amazingly greatful. I know some people around here are not electronics gurus, and might not know the difference between a resistor, diode or transistor, but if I make it somewhat easier, then I feel I've made a difference.

The diode in the key is very important, the triangle with the line (schematic drawing), is in exact relation with the stripe on the diode itself, make sure the stripe is pointing in the same direction as the triangle pretty much.

And the transistor/igbts (insulated gate bipolar transistor which is the coil ignitors) are situated with the face with the name brand and such facing toward you, as you can see in the drawing, I tried to add shadow to simulate this.

If anything needs to be clarified, or you don't understand WHY its supposed to be like that, dont hesitate to ask, thats what this forum is for.

Anyway, good luck guys.

matt
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Old 06-18-2006, 03:18 AM   #5
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Hey Matt! Thanks you so much fo this, very f*** helpfull! lol thanks man!! =D>

First off, ignore my last mail ( if you saw it) I just figured it out.

Now my question is, You were runing before the 2.2 board? Because that's what i have, but the V3 has more features but what I don't understandis, if you can buy separatly and add/make fit it into the v2.2 board? If so how do you do that and how much cost the V3 ? Is really needed to do the same setup as you, wasted spark?

I'm following your whole setup and soon will want ignition, but forst I have to learn fuel.

=D>
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Old 06-18-2006, 09:48 AM   #6
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Great write up Matt, this should be a sticky.
How many layers of heat sinks did you you use for the coil ignitors and the FET and the thickness of them?
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Old 06-18-2006, 03:50 PM   #7
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Diego, I just saw your email, I'm glad you got it figured out, I'm not sure why I didn't see the email before, musta looked past it. I did get the V2.2 to read the stock VR sensor, I had to build a circuit for it using the LM1815N chip and some resistors and caps.

However, I burned up some outputs or something because I couldnt get the chip to send the signal to the coil ignitors, so I decided to scrap it and go with the V3.0 board. The awesome thing about the v3.0 board is the proto area and the heat sinked transistor area. This makes it easy to add extra stuff. The v3 board is around 200 unbuilt, and around 350 built I believe (http://www.diyautotune.com). You dont NEED it, but it is a bit easier. I'll show you pics of my daughter board at the bottom, it actually fit into my MS case, but you could put it in another plastic project box if you want.

Pete, the heat sinks for the vb921s are aluminum sheet metal bent into 4 or 5 layers, its about 1/8" thick. They key to this is to make sure it butts up against the MS case when you slide it in, that helps dispurse the heat. The sink for the boost controller transistor is a piece of RC car speed controller heat sink, it doesnt but up against the case, but it seems sufficient enough to keep it cool (it doesnt see as much heat as the vb921s).

This is the circuit needed to decode the stock trigger wheel.



Here are pics of the daughter board I built. The transistor and VB921s mounted to the MS case directly as a heat sink. The black wire coming through the grommet is a shielded wire for the VR sensor. The 3 white wires coming out are the ones that ground the coils.




This is the circuit for the LM1815n wheel decoder chip in the first picture.



matt
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Diego, I just saw your email, I'm glad you got it figured out, I'm not sure why I didn't see the email before, musta looked past it. I did get the V2.2 to read the stock VR sensor, I had to build a circuit for it using the LM1815N chip and some resistors and caps.

However, I burned up some outputs or something because I couldnt get the chip to send the signal to the coil ignitors, so I decided to scrap it and go with the V3.0 board. The awesome thing about the v3.0 board is the proto area and the heat sinked transistor area. This makes it easy to add extra stuff. The v3 board is around 200 unbuilt, and around 350 built I believe (http://www.diyautotune.com). You dont NEED it, but it is a bit easier. I'll show you pics of my daughter board at the bottom, it actually fit into my MS case, but you could put it in another plastic project box if you want
Thanks matt. Well i guess I will keep my v2.2 board.

Could you teach me a bit of this chips and diodes and such things? I see ( also in the msefi.com forum) lots of code parts and I'm lost, I feel such ignorant.

So let me get this stright:

1) I had to build a circuit for it using the LM1815N chip and some resistors and caps .- The LM1815N chip in the main chip/brain of my board? Or is a upgraded chip for the V2.2 board or/and it comes with the V3 already?

2)coil ignitors .- The coil ignitors you talk, what part number are? Are those black boxes with three pins right? I guess I don't have them in my v2.2 board but I'm not sure ho wmany I will need and how to weld-wire them to make it work, besides I don't know if a particualry ignition setup requires different coil ignitors (code). Does need any extra firmware to make this work in my v2.2?

3)The transistor and VB921s What are these? The coil ignitors? How many are needed? Again depends on the Spark system insatlled?

4)DB9 What are these

Well hope you can help me to figure this out, I'm almost totally lost.

Keep in mind in my shopp work a eletronic (not electric mechanis) engineer and we count with even with a Fluke Scopemeter and such tool for entirely electronic and ECU repairs, so, by knowing what diodes, transistor and rest of items I need for certain upgrades in my v2.2 board we are able to weld and wire them even in the tightest places of the board, He is a expert, I'm not in that area So, don't be afraid to jump in easier ways to upgrade my MS I to run a setupo like yours cus we can make it owrk, but always knowing what i have to do

Thanks bro!

-Diego
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:32 PM   #9
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wow nice work

soooo if you want to run just one coil without the wasted spark you just need one ignition driver... right?
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Old 06-18-2006, 07:20 PM   #10
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Alright, lets see

1. The LM1815N is a 14 pin chip that you'll need to buy. I'll add a parts list for that circuit at the bottom. The v3.0 board comes with a circuit similar, but not exact, but it does the same thing.

2/3The coil ignitors are the VB921 transistors (black with 3 pins). If you want to run 3 coils, you will need 3 of them. If you want to run just one coil, you'll need just 1 of them. To run these with Megasquirt, you'll want the latest Megatune 2.25, and the 029q2 firmware, available from http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/ .

4. The DB9 is a 9 pin connector found on computers, its the same as a serial cable. It just makes it easier to connect wires to if you want to take out your MS box. Its like the DB37 pin connector that comes with megasquirt, just a lot less pins hehe.

--------------------------------------------------
Here is the parts list for the LM1815n circuit.



LM1815n chip: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...436793&Site=US

These are all part numbers from http://www.mouser.com

Resistors:
18k Ohm: 660-CF1/4C182J
4k7 Ohm: 660-CF1/4C472J
50k Ohm: 660-CF1/4C754J
1mega Ohm: 660-CF1/4C105J

Capacitors:
330pf: 140-50P2-331K-TB
.33uf: 140-PF2A334J
.1uf: 146-250V.1k
.001uf: 21RX510
--------------------------------------------------

The VB921 Coil Ignitors are part number 511-VB921ZVFI from Mouser as well. For each coil ignitor, you will need a 1k ohm (660-CF1/2C102J) resistor and a 330ohm (271-330-RC) resistor.




Q5Quint, yes, that is correct. If you want just one coil to go to the distributer, you just need one VB921. In fact, if you have the v3.0 board, you can use the one that comes with it, like I am doing currently until I get 3 new coils and wires.


Matt
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