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Old 03-19-2008, 05:56 AM   #1
mops
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Default 2.7 turbo build form the down under... (no 56k)

Build details:
-1985 325i UK edition, catless, motronic 1.1 (no oxygen sensor), 5spd manual
-some rust repairs

-m20b25 block, o-ringed with copper wire, protrusion IIRC 0.2mm, about 125k miles, new bearings/seals. Pages 1-5
-m20b27 (eta) 81mm crank and 130mm rods
-m20b25i 9.7:1 pistons (early UK catless version) with skirts shortened (to clead crank counteweights), and new std size rings
-m20b25 stock cylinder head, with cleanup/very mild porting pages 5-9
-stock headgasket
-localy sourced 12.9 grade headbolts with custom washers/braces at 70ft/lbs

-custom twin entry exhaust manifold (link),
-Holset HX35, with twin entry 12cm exhaust housing
-50mm HKS copy wastegate
-3" exhaust straigth through with 2 resonators and 1 chambered muffler
-medium size intercooler with 2.5" piping
-HKS SSQ copy BOV
-boost controlled via 6 psi WG spring + adjustable pressure regulator feeding boost to top of the WG.

-Southbend stage 3 clutch. Rated to 350ft/lbs, was slipping, removed and uprated clamping force from 1050 to 2500lbs
-OBX helical (aka torsen) differential

-ms2-extra currently with 2.0.1 code
-wasted spark with GM coils
-lc1 wideband controller
-6x370cc injectors (out of CA18DET)
-stock FPR, modded to 3.5 bar
-Bosch 948 inline fuel pump
-water/methanol injection with Devils Own kit
-large 50mm thick alloy radiator with two 12" electric fans

-front brakes Honda S2000 300x25 vented disc with Skyline 4 pot alloy solid calpiers
-rear brakes e46 330i 294x18 vented disc with Skyline 2 pot alloy solid calipers
-750iL 25mm brake master Cylinder

-urethane bushes in alot of places
-e36 steering rack
-koni adjustable shocks front and back
-some random lowering springs
-16x7.5 wheels, with toyo t1r 225/45/16 all round

-misc gauges, sport seats, etc.

Table of Contents
Strip.....1-5
Headwork.....5-9
Engine assembly/installation/first run.....9-13
ms2 mods/injectors/waster spark v1.....14
obx lsd install.....17
making of exhaust.....18
intercooler fitting.....21
downpipe.....25
turbo bits all in.....30
some suspension piccys.....37
wheels/brakes.....42-45
datalog pic.....47
water/meth injection setup.....48
manifold faliure.....51
oil leak and bodywork.....52


Still to do (June 2010)
-paintjob
-bonnet vents
-cold air intake
-dyno run
-more vids
-maybe a quater mile pass
-fix wandering under heavy braking (might be allignment issue).

Original Post:

Howdy.

I should have done it at least a year ago, but due to some (lame) circumstances i've been putting it off...

The original goal was to build a budget m20b27 stroker and turbo it on cheap. And then it was like that... oh i might just replace this and do that and then fix that so why not rebuild the whole engine, so since i'm gonna do that i might aswell do this and that...

Done prior to build:
1. fuel pump upgraded to bosh 500hp external uni
2. megasquirt 2 installed and running engine in stock form for 2 years already
3. urethane bushings all round
4. el cheapo bucket seats
5. some gauges fitted, but that will have to be redone properly later.

To Do:
1. Pull the engine out and strip it, inspect the clearances
2. Have the block and head hot tank'ed (acid bath)
2a. drill sump and install fittings for oil return and oil temp gauge.
3. reassemble with i block, i head, i pistons, e rods, e crank, new bearings and rings and gaskets
3a. install e36 steering rack
4. Install the engine in car and run it in - with stock manifolds, in NA.
4a. Fit larger radiator with associated hoses
5. I have custom made turbo manifold last year, install that, along with holset hx35 and 50mm external wastegate.
5a. install all the necessary gauges.
6. Make entire turbo back exhaust system
6a. I need to run in new manifold and exhaust without a turbine in it, as there might be some welding splatter inside. I have a plan on how to do that. more details later.
7. install 370cc injectors. retune fuel map.
8. install the turbo. set lowest possible boost pressure. tune for boost.

It is my intention to post detailed pics of progress, and I'll be doing it as I go...
I might start other thread(s) if i have any specific questions. This thread is meant to be a log of work, however i do appreciate constructive criticism and valuable input in general.

Update... 2008-07-07....about 3 months later....
Items 1-4, 5a and 7 are complete. Rebuilt engine is running in NA setup.

Update 2008-08-08....
There was alot of mucking around with bigger injectors, wasted spark coils bracket and MS mods (see page 14), but it now drives well with all this gear in.

Update 2008-11-17
All hardware in place. Further MS mods. OBX torsen LSD installed. First ride with boost (7 psi). Still few little bits and bobs to do. Heat radiated from turbo (underbonnet) is an issue, after even 10 mile highway trips things directly exposed to exhaust housing heat radiation are hotter than they ever should be. Also along the build I have discovered two leaks. this e36 steering rack i got cheaply is leaking badly, i'll have to remove it to confirm where from.... Also bran new rocker cover hasket seems to be leaking on hexhaust header cylinder #3.
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Last edited by mops : 06-11-2010 at 04:56 AM.
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Old 03-19-2008, 06:13 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by mops View Post
I should have done it at LEAST a year ago, but due to some (LAME) circumstances i've been putting it off...
cough cough ;-)

Quote:
4. Install the engine in car and run it in - with stock manifolds, in NA.
I've said this before, but I'll say it again, break in with boost, or NEVER get good ring seal :-p

Quote:
This thread is meant to be a log of work, however i do appreciate constructive criticism and valuable input in general.
Glad to be of service breaking her in for you :-)

Bout bloody time, good to see you finally pulled your finger out and posted this up. Now we can all give you shit for taking too long and it will motivate you to work faster ;-)

Fred.
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:51 PM   #3
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Progress report.
Engine is out. We pulled it out with the gearbox. i'm not sure whether that was the easiest way to do it...

Point to note... try to drain all the coolant from the engine before pulling it out....













Next it's cleaning and stripping the engine....
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:08 PM   #4
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does that guy frequently pull engines bare footed? haha nice work man
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:46 PM   #5
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Barefoot in a working garage. Thats hardcore.
Love the unsafe practices haha, bare foot, smoking around flameable liquids, intentionally lighting the liquids...

Thats why working on e30s are soo fun.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:17 PM   #6
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6a. I need to run in new manifold and exhaust without a turbine in it, as there might be some welding splatter inside. I have a plan on how to do that. more details later.
I thought about ripping apart a cheapo web cam and sending it down the manifold tubes for an inspection. It might work......or not....

P
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:57 PM   #7
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"Don't try this at home kids!"
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:04 PM   #8
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Hes definitely a kiwi love it
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Old 03-21-2008, 07:14 PM   #9
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does that guy frequently pull engines bare footed? haha nice work man
Like the previous poster, such behaviour is compulsory in the land of the long white cloud, see me here testing the brace for my turbo manifold :

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...4/100_3939.jpg

Well done mops, as always, you are my hero, can't wait to see some tyre smoke from the beast! :-)

Does your mates Tshirt say "pimp my ute"?? I take it he's seen mine? :-)
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Old 03-22-2008, 02:14 AM   #10
mops
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heh, yes, the 'pimp my ute' tshirt is completly random !
he didnt see, but he heard the stories

havent done much today. cleaned up after last night, waterblasted gearbox, bought some misc hardware bolts and stuff... it's easter i have guests or other visits all the time...

I'm actually surprised that nobody commented.....
if you have a good look, you will see the between the engine is suspended on 2 vbelts (yes, PS and water pump/alt belts). if you think that's bad... before that solution we have 2 old m20 cabmelts and ps vbelt.... but both cambelts snapped and the engine slid down... luckily only about 50mm or so... no damage (hopefully). I already got proper chain for when i have to install the engine...
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