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Limited Group Buy: E30 Rear Subframe Camber & Toe Correction Kits - $69 Shipped

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Old 03-29-2008, 09:27 PM   #1
e30guydownunder
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Default IE Camber/Toe and Subframe Bushing Install, Final Pics NOW inside

Yes people i have so kindly compiled some photos and words of my IE camber/Toe and Bushing Install. Im not sure how indepth this should be, I am going to assume we all know how to remove the subframe. If not i took pictures so if you show me a mass uploadage function (i am having trouble with imageshack's mass upload) somewhere I will add those too.


So I lowered my e30 with some lovells springs (a 40mm drop in the rear) and as you can imagine i was soon scrubbing exepensive tyres. I believe the excessive toe-in is more to blame than just the camber alone. So first i took some measurements of the car on the ground in a loaded position (i.e. stop very slowly and park it in gear so as to not alter the geometry like the handbrake does).

I measured the subframe height off the ground and the camber on both wheels (for info sake: my camber was -3.75 LHS, -3 RHS and the subframe is around 195mm off the ground just next to the subframe bushing mounts)
You will see why i did this later. Also I probably should have measured the diff height off the ground. Dont look at the rear bumper it will be fixed when i fit up the mtech 2 front in my back yard







Now you drop, the exhaust, diff, trailing arms, tailshaft, and lastly the subframe. For me personally I was able to drop the subframe, diff+shafts and trailing arms as one unit. I didnt even take the exhaust off all the way, i just took out the little pipe between the fuel tanks allowing the tail shaft to get enough angle and disengage from the diff and subframe.

I was also blessed to be working on an Australian Car, that is no rust or corrosion, the brake lines were a breeze, the handbrake cables popped straight out, the subframe even started coming down when i was undoing the big size 22 nuts. Yes it fell out of the car, non of this bashing and hack job stuff. I wish you the best of luck with you subframe.

Ok so you have your subframe out of the car, now set it up as it is in the car (diff, arms, shafts, wheels). So for me i got various blocks of wood and scrap steel to achieve the 195mm for the subframe and had the diff on a trolley jack till it looked level (horizontal) (I probably should have measured the diff height but meh) (also notice the bald tires.....the only reason the middles are worn out to is because i was running around 41psi to push them out a bit, should see the insides of the 14's i had on there before )



Once this was setup i set about tackling the camber adjustment first (the inner mount of the trailing arms). Removed the bolt and using various wedges raised the point until i measured the desired camber on the wheel. Ended up I wanted the point about 20mm up from factory (the IE Adjusters only have 12mm of adjustment) So it seemed I would need to weld them on a bit higher than perhaps intended from the IE factory. I went about slotting the inner mount holes vertical and thru to the top. Then levelled the top of the mount, there was a little step. This is a finished modified mount:



After this I bolted the IE adjusters and set the bolt and nut at the highest vertical adjustment (the trailing arm is still in the raised position about the factory hole, thus with desired camber) With this i could see i needed about 10mm extra material on the top of the original trailing arm mount in order to support the bush properly and have enough strength. Luckily we had some scrap 13x2 flatbar lying about A bit was suitably cut and bent up to sit on top of the original mount like so:



This was then slotted a little bit as the IE bolt would have to adjust into it a little bit. The pictures will make this comprehendable This flatbar was then welded onto the factory mount and cleaned up like so (as you can see the trailing arms have now been removed and replaced a few times):



Now you put the arm back in set everything up at maximum adjustment and make sure you can still get the desired camber. If all is good tack the IE plates in place as i did. Should look something like this:



Notice the relation between the factory position (see how the slot continues past the IE adjuster slot) and where I have the IE slot positioned.



So now you put everything back together again and check you can adjust your camber smoothly, Now time for the toe.

First some research was conducted......The outer tailing arm mount was disconnected and once again the wedges were used to adjust the wheel. Measuring the camber change we found that the IE adjusters would allow plenty of adjustment. With this the holes were slotted backwards to match the IE adjusters.

My father (who kindly helped me with all the fabricaion work......left me to do all the work under the car ) was concerned that with the camber adjustment the toe bush would bind up causing all sorts of headaches, so as well as slotting it, we enlarged the hole so as to allow some angle compensation for the pin:



Then bolt it all together do some more checking and such (we set the arm in the factory camber and toe positions). Tack the IE tabs in place, remove the arm, complete welding and clean up the lot with a grinder. Should look something like this:



Now you have a trailing arm that has adjustmet for camber and toe. Sigh some relief have a drink of your beer and replicate all of the above on the other side

One problem i came across is my IE subframe bushes would foul on the now much longer bolt and nut, I suitable modified them:



Yes you see i have removed my subframe bushes by this stage......It seems i have left out one step of the whole process. Before i undertook any of this i helped my father restore a hydraulic press we saved from the scrap yard. It was a lil bent and twisted, didnt have a table and the cylinder and the pump looked long gone.

So with some time and a new pump (seems the cylinder was still in working condition) We had a hydraulic press that was able to press my subframe bushes and trailing arm bushes out with ease (i later fitted some 100 C channel lengths to form a table):



Ok so now you have a subframe with modified mounts and new bushes, Should look like this (notice i have put the bolts thru from the middle, this was done so that if i have to adjust them in the car i can, it also means with some struggling the trailing arms can actually be removed without pulling the subframe out of the car) dont forget to spray some paint around the bare steel to stop corrosion:



Now you put it in your car and set it up.....I put it in the car with guestimate setting based on what was seen in the garage on the floor (camber full on left, toe basically half left and right, camber a lil down from the top on the right)

These turned out to not be too bad i had 3mm toe in on the left and no toe on the right, and camber was spot on -1.25 for both. so i jacked it up and adjusted some toe in on the right (because you dont want bump, toe-out)

Incase you are wondering how the feck I was checking my toe.....

Two lengths of RHS spaced up to about wheel centre height. I then measured the distance between the two lengths and ensured it was even, and set the spacing from the RHS the same distance for the rear and the front (rear and front are different spaicng as track width is different). With this i had two parallel lengths parallel to the car. Thus toe is the diffence between measurements for the front of the rim and the rear of the rim at the same height (the RHS) (sorry i dont have a picture of this and its a bitch to set up)

Pics of the New Camber are Here tell me if i need to tell you how to remove the subframe.







And incase your wondering why i havent got the awesome shot from behind the car on the ground...My borthers ute was in the way and im a lazy ass. For good measure a picture of it:



NOW HOW TO DO I FEEL AFTER ALL THIS:

Well The install was quite an in depth process, we were working on it for two full days, plus another few hours to set it up afterwards.

Basically as long as you have some basic logic and skills you can tackle this, its not really too hard, but you will need fab skills and equipment.

Apart from the install these are an absolute blast to use, spin the bolt lock it up, done and it ill stay done forever.

One gripe i have is the poly bushes are quite noisy, i used the silcia lube on the pins in the trailing arm bushes as it came with those, and the subframe bushes are just in dry/as they came from IE. Im wondering if i shouldnt have put some lube in eslewhere any advice??? Other than that, the rear end seems to have some decision about it now, i point the front end where i want to go and the rear responds with a "OK LETS FOLOW!!!" rather than the disconcerning "wateva im not quite ready" i was getting before.

I think thats about it... I will progessively check this for spelling errors, and there will be some. Cheers hope i can help someone.

Last edited by e30guydownunder : 04-05-2008 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:37 PM   #2
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i vote sticky! awesome write up
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Old 03-30-2008, 08:25 AM   #3
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Great write-up man! ditto on the sticky
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:43 AM   #4
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Thanks Guys, the difference i think is really worth the effort, that or my new tyres are fecking awesome coparing to the last lot (Ecsta's vs Yokohama something arather)

Pic will come this weekend i think...been too busy trying out the new forks on my pushie
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Old 04-05-2008, 08:42 PM   #5
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Im in the process of uploading/adding pics of final camber to the original post the difference is clear for the eye to see
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:25 AM   #6
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sticky worthy
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Old 05-01-2008, 09:20 PM   #7
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Wow this helped me alot. I am doing the diff bushing and SS brake lines at the same time, so this way is the win for me. Thanks
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Old 05-01-2008, 09:24 PM   #8
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No probs, im just happy to be able to contribute to this forum finally Good luck
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Old 05-28-2008, 07:50 PM   #9
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Can't wait to do it to mine
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:43 PM   #10
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I will be definetly PM'ing you in the future since I ordered the camber/toe kit and based on what I saw on your pics, I will definetly satisfied.
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