finally going to be boosted! ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!! exhaust video inside...

[FuryriderX]

Parts list (either i have purchased these and they're on their way, or i have already)

garrett gt30r turbo (unsure of the exact a/r numbers, deal was too good to pass up)
turbonetics racegate 38mm wastegate
greddy type rs BOV
ebay manifold, braced so no cracks
21x6x2.5 intercooler
metric blue headbolts, stock headgasket.

car is already megasquirted, 33lb injectors.

plus all the random other stuff. i will be making a project thread with my progress, as soon as i get started. target date is 2nd week of july, to get everything in. boost target is 9-10psi.

And now comes the questions!

With the ebay tubular manifold, typically you rotate the oil filter housing so it clears the manifold. However, the engine mount on the iX is in the way. How would this problem be rectified? Should i run a remote oil filter? Would definitely make changing it easier... Any sources of good quality ones?

For the oil drain, i plan to drain it into the valve cover, because its easy, and the turbo will be high enough to allow it. Any negatives to this setup? One of my friends said that it might cause oil starvation in the engine, and would require a scavenging pump to solve it. Is this a valid concern?

Remember, the iX oil pan is very very different than a normal e30 pan. For turbo iX guys that have tapped/welded fittings onto the pan, where have you put it? Can this be done with the pan on the car?

Any other input? I have been reading the turbo FAQ's and a lot of other turbo related info, so i think i'm well grounded in the basic knowledge. My friend here has also turbo'd his e30, so i have his experience to go on.

[einarsss]

I would tap the pan ... ive read that some do it with the oil pan on, and grease the drill bit up and remove the particles very often from the drill. But to be sure you dont get metal flakes inside your pan and through the oil system i would remove the pan ... easiest is to remove the engine and work on it like that ... change the clutch etc etc ... will take 1/4 of the time that will go into doing all this work with the engine in the car.

usually people tap the pan at the front passenger corner as high as possible but with clearance to put the bolt in above it.

[ELONZOOOO]

no go on the VC drain line, check out quints turbo recipe, i think he drives a turbo IX and there's a bucnch of pics

[FuryriderX]

Originally Posted by ELONZOOOO

no go on the VC drain line, check out quints turbo recipe, i think he drives a turbo IX and there's a bucnch of pics

he drained it into the dipstick tube. i'm kinda leery of doing this, as i'd have to wrap the oil line all around the block. but yeah, its definitely possible.

are there any definite 'no-go's' on draining it into the valve cover? if it will work out with a downward slope and such? because i could always change it later if it doesn't work out as well as intended. but i would prefer to get it right the first time, definitely.

thus the asking for advice.

any other turbo iX's on here besides quint?

[Q5Quint]

easy and quick = drain into the dipstick... its been working for a long time so I cant recommend against it.... make sure to go with the 3an feed.

Correct and slightly less quick...
pull the engine... change the clutch.... drill the oil pan...


my stock clutch still kind of holds 8psi.....just not at wot in 4th around 4k rpm.... if it wasnt brand new (less than 3 years) i wouldnt worry but since it is~ a clutch is in your near future anyway so go ahead and spend the time pulling it all, drilling the pan, better clutch, and doing it all. My current remedy is to not drive fast in 4th gear but we both know the correct way to go about it. Note: this is 8psi on a weeny t3 super 60..... if you are going bigger and better with your turbo 8psi will roast your clutch like a 14 year old watching your steak at the family cookout.

Dont know about your manifold so i cant answer those questions~ goodluck!
-Q

[FuryriderX]

i'm going to likely do the clutch when i swap out my transfer case, which is a project i'm leaving until the wintertime, to spread out the cost/downtime.

problem with the -3an line is that my turbo has a -4an inlet feed.

oh, and believe me, i'm celebrating with a case of beer when this project's done.


EDIT: here's some pics of the intercooler mocked up on my parts car. And the slight creative modification a la angle grinder, to make the oil filter fit

[chris325ix]

have you removed the transfer case before? swapping it out is a ~2 hour job on my back with jackstands and hand tools, I wouldn't put a clutch/proper oil drain off just because of that one "scary" job.

[FuryriderX]

no, the thing is, chris - i don't have another one to go in. when i pull it, i want to change it with a fresh one.

my fresh one is locked in the confines of an auto t-case. which is still on my parts car. i have a spare manual t-case in my basement, with an unknown VC, that will receive the good one from the auto t-case.

its less laziness, and more that i want to spread out the cost over a longer period. because when i do the clutch/t-case, i'm rebuilding the shifter/putting in a z3 shifter arm.

different jobs for different times.

[chris325ix]

Why not just remove the A/C? that bracket looks like it will just get in the way of changing the oil filter, even with it ground down like that.

as far as the TC - I understand. But if you're making one good TC from the auto and manual, all you really need is a gasket set which is only a few dollars. The shifter bits are around $80, not too bad. of course the clutch upgrade is quite a bit more (around $400 for a sachs 618pp and sport clutch). I just know you're going to get everything together, step on the throttle and then you'll wish you had taken the time to do the clutch.

[FuryriderX]

no no, a/c is staying - i quite often have passengers in the car, who can't tolerate the heat as well as i.

where'd you get the sachs pressure plate? apparently it'll hold 300+ft-lbs on a stock clutch disc (which i have a brand new one of, in my basement).