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Limited Group Buy: E30 Rear Subframe Camber & Toe Correction Kits - $69 Shipped

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Old 05-03-2009, 09:35 PM   #1
iXer
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Default The iX stroker (porting and gas flowing)

The iX stroker : M20B28 + Schrick 304 cam

The idea is basically to build a N/A engine for my iX (perpetual jack stand project). There is also an opportunity for some free engine dyno time on a Land&Sea + Dynomite setup. That way I will get to test and load the engine good before mounted into the car. The iX is tough enough to wrench with so the dyno time is some assurance that I won't have to rip the engine out of the car any time soon - should something not be right about the engine I will see that in the engine dyno and not in the car.

Things have mostly been in the planning stages up till now so I thought I'd present what I've got to work with so far.

Bottom end is simple and cheap!
The block and rods are from an -89 iX.
Crank and pistons are from an M52B28.
O-rings (1 mm SS wire, 0.2 mm protrusion)
Stock flywheel + clutch
Lightened/weighted/balanced stock 135 mm rods

I could've gone for H/I-beam rods and forged custom pistons, but to me the function of those aftermarket parts are not warranted. I like to keep costs down and trust that I know what I'm doing, a good compromise.

Now with an 84 mm stroke and the M52B28 pistons, the piston+rod assembly stands 3.5 mm tall from the deck. No worries, I have cut valve reliefs in the (quite sturdy) pistons and shaved them down some to match the squish of the combustion chamber in the head and to lower the c/r some what to 12:1. There is 4 mm down to the first piston ring, and that's ok according to people I've discussed it with. I measured the middle part of the piston crown to be 6.5 mm thick at a minimum, it's a lot thicker further out and at the deepest part of the valve pockets I still have a few mm to spare to the ring lands and bottom side of the piston.

This is how they turned out:




The head, where the power is made.
Schrick 304 cam.
Schrick 42+37 mm valves
PAC beehive valve springs.
Ireland Engineering cast heavy-duty rockers
Nuke adjustable cam timing gear

The "cam card"
Cam lift: 7.7
Duration Intake/Exhaust Peak Timing : 304/304/105
Valve Timing : 47-77 77-47
Valve lift at TDC : 4.0 mm

I got my hands on a pretty virgin 885 head with a Schrick 304 cam mounted, it has seen little use. I'll take it apart, clean up the ports and cut some valve seats.
It's really tough to improve the M20 castings, they basically suck due to the sharp and low bottom turn but still flow 170 cfm @ 28". The flow bench I've tried the head on had the flow stall above 11 mm while I've seen others claim that flow increased above that lift. I think this is because I used a true 28" water bench while some only use 10" and re-calculate the flow @ 28", naturally the gas speeds play a big role here!

I'll settle with a nice 3-angle valve seat and light porting. To really make an 'evo 885' I'd have to raise the ports, I'm not really into doing that much work and I'll make this head the "Mark I" and save plastic work for later.
I'm thinking of welding the water channels just to make this one last. I'll use a regular head gasket with ARP studs.




Intake and exhaust

I have two extractor exhaust manifolds to test. Engine dynos are fun.

The first one is from Delubozparts : www.stores.ebay.com/delubozparts
These look excellent for the price.

Second one are similar to the OBX Racing Sports Stainless Steel Headers from Sparktec-Motorsports : http://stores.ebay.com/Sparktec-Motorsports
These are shorter headers and are similar to headers that have been apart of a group buy (if not the same).

As far as intake goes, if there is time I will build a custom intake with velocity stacks and a 80 mm throttle-body. It's what I should do to be fair to the potential of the rest of the parts. Undecided.
Stock intake has priority to pass annual inspection in my country, so it will probably be evaluated in the dyno either way.


As I work and treat all the parts you'll get to know what happens. It'll take the time it takes.


Sooo. Any questions?
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:24 PM   #2
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Much better iXer Looks like Cam timing will be a big thing for you. remember to check valve clearences either side of TDC....I've actually seen the results of valves openning faster than the piston is going down. I now have a nice chunk of forged piston on my desk!

Will be good to watch this and see the results of back to back testing various components.
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:26 PM   #3
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Well I am watching with interest As a side note, I just impulse bought a set of those Ireland heavy duty rockers for my M10 turbo. I'll get a decent cam now.... which means I'll need a bigger turbo. Expensive impulse buy
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:06 AM   #4
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iXer building a car without a turbo. human sacrifice. cats and dogs living together. mass hysteria! I DON'T UNDERSTAND

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Old 05-04-2009, 12:57 AM   #5
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sounds amusing, ill be watching to see how more cam does, mine is a m20b28 with 130mm rods and stock pistons for a assumed compression ratio of around 9.3 (someone ran the math once and the number sounded reasonable) and a 280* cam from BAS 10.6mm/10.6mm 110* separation, it runs great but the top end sucks above 6k with the stock injection when it leans out while on the wot switch, i can't wait to get my meagsquirt back and going and see what i am missing on the top end, then bolt up the blower
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:52 PM   #6
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Stock valves?
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Old 05-04-2009, 01:01 PM   #7
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In the near future I'll flow test a head that has +1 mm valves and near the same type of port work and valve seat job that my head will receive. I have flow numbers from that head with stock valves, we'll see if it's worth investigating. Personally I don't think it's worthwhile, the flow limit is in the intake port design and the only way to cure it in a simple way is to add more cam.
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Old 05-04-2009, 01:03 PM   #8
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Mattias you know you are going to like the 2.8.
I like mine (stock head and 8:1 compression) at 6psi
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Old 05-05-2009, 06:05 PM   #9
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Actually I do have a question - I assume you did plenty of research before buying those rockers. Do you have them yet - how do they look? Do you have a view as to what sort of RPM they are ok to?

I'm not so much worried for me (new cam, so new rockers - with a 292 I don't think I will go over 6500rpm regularly), but I know someone with a 304 in an NA M10 for racing who is having rocker problems and needs to know if the heavy duty rockers are going to be enough or if they need billet.
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Old 05-05-2009, 06:19 PM   #10
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I have the rockers and besides looking cleaner than stock forged items while being just as cheap - they look A LOT stronger than stock at the precise spot that we always have trouble, at the eccentric. Mind you valve springs are at least as important, as well as using a proper rpm limiter that doesn't cut ignition (bang bang).

As far as people testing them, there are a few I know who will be faster than me to try them but I guess I'll know when I'm done with the dyno.

(they're not only wider, but taller too)
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